The ancient city of Polonnaruwa, deep in the central plains of Sri Lanka, was the playground of kings and the capital of the country. But time has taken its toll. What was once the centre of an empire is now a mix of ancient ruins, crumbling temples, and mischievous monkeys.

Like many travellers to Sri Lanka we wanted to visit one of the ancient capitals. Anuradhapura, the capital for over 1400 years, is older and more important historically. But its ruins are a faded version of its former self, sprawling across a large area.

Polonnaruwa, on the other hand, has well-maintained ruins in a well-organised park. As a relatively compact area, it’s the ideal place to explore on 2 wheels. Huge numbers of temples, monuments and stupas stand within easy proximity of each other, connected by tree-lined boulevards. Cycling between them is a breeze.

With plenty of shady spots, good roads and refreshing local drinks at every entrance, cycling the ancient city of Polonnaruwa is a great way to understand one of Sri Lanka’s historic treasures.